HDMI Adapter for Nintendo Wii

The Nintendo Wii is the only major gaming console that does not have a factory HDMI output port.  Although the game console’s output resolution is only 480p, HDMI is now the  standard AV interface on amplifiers, switchers and TV’s and the lack of an HDMI output on the Wiii makes installations and wiring more complex and troublesome than it needs to be.

Wii gamers and systems integrators such as ourselves have been waiting for a convenient Wii HDMI adapter for years, Thanks to the Wii2HDMI Adapter the long wait is over.

The Wii2HDMI adapter converts the standard Wii output into an HDMI 1.3 compatible device allowing audio and video to be carried over a single HDMI cable.

The Wii2HDMI adapter plugs directly into the back of the Wii and adds about 3” to the rear of the console.  The adapter up converts the Wii standard 480p component video signal and analogue audio signal into HDMI digital output.  The adapter also offers a separate integrated analogue 3.5mm audio out jack which provides a second audio output which can be feed to non-HDMI equipped receivers or headphones – Ingenious!

The Wii2HDMI adapter is really simple to use and operate there are no controls or settings and basically just plug it into the back of the Wii, plug in an HDMI cable and you’re done!  Simple, easy and effective.

We recommend the Wii2HDMI adapter as a simple, effective device for converting Wii audio and video output to HDMI Compatible signals.  While the adapter won’t improve the picture quality (it’s still 480p) it will allow you to transmit the Wii video signal successfully over HDMI.  The extra 3.5mm integrated audio jack is useful for sending audio to an AV receiver which doesn’t support HDMI or headphones.

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5 Responses to HDMI Adapter for Nintendo Wii

  1. WTFMan says:

    “the adapter won’t improve the picture quality (it’s still 480p)”
    Its pointless then….

    • djsedm says:

      You’re absolutely right the adapter won’t improve the picture quality it is still 480p However it’s far from pointless.

      The point is you don’t have to run an additional cable (composite or component) – this is especially important when using today’s newer Televisions or AV receivers which have HDMI switching built in but have limited or in some cases no Composite or Component Video inputs.

      This adapter minimizes the amount of cabling necessary to be run to your TV when using an AV receiver with HDMI switching.

      Many custom installations with wiring ran inside the wall only have 1 HDMI run to the TV and perhaps a coax or cat5 in these situations all components need to be connected by either HDMI or COAX generally, an AV receiver with built in HDMI switch easily will switch all HDMI components to the TV HDMI input hence the need for HDMI on the Wii.

      Another example is when you want to run cables in a wall but only have room to run the minimum amount of cabling ie power and a single HDMI and not 5 or 10 different HDMI, Component, Composite, Coaxial, Cat5, Audio etc… using this adapter and a single HDMI with a receiver with HDMI switching allows you to run only 1 cable to your display along with power if necessary.

      One more example is convenience – If all your components are running on a single platform be it HDMI or Component Video for example then the television or display can remain on the SAME INPUT for all components and the AV Receiver can do the switching. This is great convenience and simplifies the operation of the TV since you don’t have to say for the Cable Box the TV needs to be on HDMI 1, for the Blue Ray – HDMI 2 for the Satellite HDMI 3 and for the Wii Game Composite Video 1 etc…. oh year and for Audio you need the receiver to be on Video 1 for cable, video 2 for blue-ray, video 3 for satellite and video 4 for Wii – this configuration will often confuse novice users since they have several inputs for audio and video to deal with. Having a single source Video 1 and only one source of switching Audio or Video simplifies everything and make it more convenient for users to operate since they don’t have to worry about switching the input on the TV – the TV stays on HDMI 1 for everything and the switching is done on the AV receiver this of course is only possible in many cases if all components use the same HDMI platform.

      We’ve used this handy little HDMI adapter in most of our custom installs for just these reasons it minimizes the cabling and switching required and simplifies the operation of the systems for our customers. It’s not meant to increase the resolution – that’s not the intent of the product.

      • Sam says:

        you are absolutely right!
        I bought it for that exact reason, TV act just as a monitor and the AV receiver acts as the main hub.

        however, I ordered and I received an empty bag from Neoya!!! is this a scam?

      • djsedm says:

        Sorry to hear you’ve received an empty bag from Neoya – have you contacted the company and given them the opportunity to help you out? I have purchased several Wii HDMI adapters from Neoya as have many of my clients and we all have received ours. I have also had several inquiries from many readers who I assume have purchased from Neoya and also have received their products and in addition to the best of my knowledge All Have Worked!

        Your experience seems out of the norm and certainly is unfortunate. Neoya is not a scam and I would suggest you contact them by email and see if they can resolve your issue.

        Good Luck!

  2. Alex says:

    I am looking at this from the stand-point from an engineer and technician. It may or may not improve the quality of your already known picture. Meaning it doesn’t increase the resolution and color depth however, if the HDMI adapter was derived from the RGB source on the main A/V connector on the Wii or a GameCube for that matter, converting from that into the format that HDMI uses, it will have better clarity and cleaner / more crisp graphics than that of the leaky RCA connectors and combined / multiplexed signals of the S-Video (S-VHS video) and the component video.

    Now, there is many different ways to convert to a HDMI compatible signal, since I don’t actually own one of these units myself I cannot speak on their behalf. Although, some cheap models will take the standard composite video output and convert it to HDMI format and pass the audio through that way, that in and of itself would pass the tests but would in no means be quality conversion.

    Something interesting to note about the difference between interlaced and progressive scan gaming consoles isn’t that much. Many of the games are still created in interlaced mode and give a “compatibility” with progressive scan in mind. There are for example, only 13 games for Wii that actually have progressive scan in mind when they created it and had the legacy setting for interlace as well.

    For example, conversion of a movie or game written specifically for 480i and converted over to 480p will yield no better clarity than when it was in it’s original format. Same with an up conversion to a higher resolution and standard.

    If you see flickering in terms of screen artifacts and say it’s due to interlace vs. progress for which you don’t see it, that’s true to some extent however, if the units both the display and the unit sending the signal, such as a game console had quality parts in it with a descent video chipset and support circuitry you wouldn’t see the flickering then.

    Progressive scan, as it stands right now, hasn’t been used to the maximum and very few chipsets for both consoles / computers / camera or receivers / TVs / monitors have all the features afforded to them by the full IEEE specification regarding this area.

    By the way, there is no broadcast standard for the progressive scan, it’s all interlace. When it comes into your cable, satellite, TV, TROLL boxes it comes in as interlace, aka 480i, 720i, 1080i and gets converted either by the box itself or by your display. Also, the cameras that claim that they are progressive scan are actually interlace on the inside and then convert on the fly to progressive format, which in and of itself is rotten to the core because you are paying for a camera you expect it to be fully progressive (which it’s not).

    What it all boils down to is this, if you take from an inferior video source and up convert it to another format and standard, don’t expect it to look better, it will just be crappy but compatible with the current adapter you are using. If you use a good source, such as the DVI or RGB source on that connector you will be okay, the images and FMV will look far sharper for as long as there is a genlocked video source during the conversion otherwise the scan will look funny when you are watching it.

    Something else, when people talk about the full HD comparing 720 to 1080, there is no full HD, there are high definition models past 1080, there’s 1440 / 1600, etc. There is also a lot more confusion regarding the formats sounding better. The sound from 720i or 720p are the same, only the video changes (assuming you take full advantage and do a direct creation for progressive scan) and 1080i or 1080p (again, same thing with progressive scan, only for video), the the sound sampling rates (yes, I said rates, they are selectable) are the same for 720 and 1080 series. For example, if you want High Def audio and you watch YouTube or VEVO a lot, where you don’t care for the video component and you go with just a lyrics based presentation, with the option of 720p or 1080p, pick the 720p since it has the formats locked and selected only to a certain sampling frequency and the big thing, it downloads faster as just audio. The thing that takes the most time on YouTube is downloading blank video for progressive scan, it would be worse if it was interlace but if you are just doing HD audio, use that little trick. I am sure you will get what I mean after you listen to it a couple of times.

    One last part, whether you know this or not, the HDMI signals are downwardly compatible with the DVI connector, meaning the HDMI connector through a device called a “dongle” can be interfaced with a DVI or DVI-D connector and have it work perfectly fine. Whereas the HDMI is digital and the DVI series are both digital and analog (analog part carries VGA signals to the display). About the cables that are listed as HDMI 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5 and 1.6 in varying revisions of a ~ c, the only real difference you should note other than the pin outs on some is the capacitance on each of these wires, this will more than often tell you which is best for a given frequency and data bit rate, also unified resistance across the cable end to end is very important as well (balanced cables as they are referred to in the industry). You can have a great converter but paired with a cable with horrible characteristics can make it look like the converter is bad. Check with a different cable before you say something bad about a manufacturer’s item. Many people don’t go to these steps but I believe it’s necessary and will make you a better troubleshooter in the process.

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